The Landing at Omaha - Part 3

(From: Tracks Across Europe - Dal Estes) (Part 3)

It was about 300 yards from the water to the cliff bottom.  We made the first strand of protective shale, dismounted there and looked for cover.  We made it to the next ridge of shale rock on the beach and took cover behind it to see how or where we would proceed.  Several of us took cover under a disabled tank to keep from being hit by mortar fire.  About the time we got under the tank, the men in it got it re-started and we were forced to located other cover.

About our personal feelings, yes we were scared - but so much was going on that survival and staying together was our utmost thought.  That, and pushing on to beat the Germans.

It much be understood that there were no atheists on the beach that day.  We all looked to a God for help.  When you are under fire, it is surprising how large the steel helmet is.  Believe it or not, it feels as big as a steel roof over your head, especially when they are dropping mortars down on you.

At noon we were still pinned down on the beach and shells of all types continued to hit our area.  Men continued to land behind us but could find no place to go.  Many took the same route we had.  By this time the smoke was heavy.  Some semblance of order was taking place by this time and the exit allowing us to get the bluff and up was finally opened between 12:30 and 1pm.

We were delayed at the crest of the exit, and we turned around and viewed the landing beaches with awe, as it really was a mess - bombed out buildings, vehicles burning, barges sunk at the shore and bodies lying sprawled in the sand. During the brief delay, Shelton and I decided to look inside the largest concrete bunker overlooking Omaha Beach at the St. Laurent exit.  It was equipped with large caliber guns.  Inside were a couple of dead German soldiers.  On the floor was a large Nazi flag, which I picked up.  

(Dal Estes - Tracks Across Europe)

Background:
That bunker is now a historical landmark in St. Laurent sur Mer, France, about a quarter of a mile from Musee Memorial d' Omaha Beach. The flag he picked up off that floor, has been displayed in the Museum since 1994. Dad retuned it on his first trip back to France for the 50th Anniversary celebration. As he was preparing for that trip, my sister asked him why he didn't just keep it. Dad responded, "I've had it for 50 years - its time it goes back to where it came from...Omaha Beach."

I was able to see the bunker yesterday for the first time. Just from a pure historical perspective it was really cool. It was much smaller than I envisioned.  The top has a huge chunk missing where our bombers missed the mark on the first few shots.  When you get inside however, it's pretty clear we hit it perfectly on subsequent tries.  There is a huge gaping hole in the metal that protected the gunner as he was firing.  He was one of the dead soldiers Dad referred to above. 

On our visit to the bunker in Normandy yesterday, there was a Swiss tour guide leading a group of people who happened to be visiting from Kentucky.  They came to Omaha Beach with their Dad, a DDay Veteran. I smiled to myself when I heard the guide explain the origin and history of the bunker.  I looked over and realized that my sister was listening and smiling too.   We looked at each other and laughed.  We could have recited the story of that bunker in our sleep.  We had heard it for years. Hearing the guide give it was fun, and somehow made it even more real. However, he didn't have the benefit of growing up with one of the main characters of the story, so we had to restrain ourself from adding bits and pieces to his version of events.  For example, Dad told us that when he went in - the blast from the bomb was so powerful that it knocked the door of the hinges and he had to step over it to get inside.  Today there is no door on that bunker.  

(My family and me at the Bunker today for a remembrance ceremony:

Once inside, I stood there for a bit and just took it all in. I looked at the floor trying to imagine where Dad first saw that flag. The flag has certainly been the topic of much discussion and desire (from museums)  over the years, but lesser known is that Dad also picked up film canisters and some photos.  Years after the war he had the film developed.  Not surprising, since he took it from a German bunker, the photos were of German officers, German women and one amazing one of Field Marshal Rommel directing the troops.  We have the originals at home but several copies can be seen at Musee Memorial d' Omaha Beach.  I have always thought it would be neat to scan the photos, create a website and use the power of the internet to try and put some names and stories with the men and women in the photos.  Time is an enemy in a project like that, as the further removed you become from the main subject, the harder it is to fill in the blanks.

 I have no idea what possessed my Dad to pick up that flag, shove it the back of his jacket and fight with it the next few weeks.  Same with the film.  He had untold weight on the pack on his back, but stopped, picked them up and continued to fight through the apple orchards and hedgerows of France.  "History never looks like history when you are living through it", said John Gardner.  I'd like to think my Dad knew this was a historic day and that these artifacts, and the stories of how they were acquired, would be worth discussing someday, if for no other reason than to ensure that history didn't repeat itself.

Flag Display at Musee DDay Memorial Omaha Beach

 Musee DDay Memorial Omaha Beach website:

http://www.musee-memorial-omaha.com/index.php

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